【作者】 杨勇波；

【导师】 李怡；

【作者基本信息】 湖南大学 ， 设计学， 2023， 博士

【摘要】 湘西苗绣是湘西苗族世代相传的刺绣手工艺,是苗语东部方言区传统文化的杰出代表,2021年扩展进国家级非物质文化遗产名录。湘西苗绣传统设计文化作为苗族文化系统中一个相对独立的子系统,承载着苗族人民的设计文化观念,有其民族化和地域性规律。设计文化中的“设计”指为实现某种特定目的而进行的创造性活动,“文化”是人类精神生活和社会行为诸多方面的总和。研究及调研表明,苗绣物品的制作和创新具有明确的目的,可将苗绣艺人群体的刺绣活动视为一种朴素的设计,这种设计活动推动了苗族文化由传统向现代的演进。其传统性在于过去是为了适应传统农耕社会而产生,而改革开放后湘西苗绣在现代化工业大生产的冲击下,为了适应工业文明时代而进行现代化文化转换,其文化变迁是为了优化文化生态进行的美学实践。虽然,湘西苗绣的传承与保护得到了国家的重视,地方政府和专家学者进行了大量的研究和实践,取得了瞩目的成绩。但是,笔者对湘西苗绣持续进行了近六年的考察与研究,发现在繁荣的表象下仍然存在文化断层、后继乏人、市场乱象等问题,阻滞了湘西苗绣的进一步发展。全文以1992年作为界限,将湘西苗绣分为传统与现代两大部分,以传统到现代的历史变迁为主线,以湘西苗绣传统设计文化为研究对象,从历史成因,技术、艺术和民族特征,发展困境,现代化机制建构和路径四个层面综合研究,多维度地探讨湘西苗绣传统设计文化传承与现代化发展的策略。首先,针对湘西苗绣起源说法不一的问题,梳理了湘西苗族区域社会的历史发展脉络,得出苗绣起源于距今4000多年前尧舜时代原始部落的“文身画衣”,指出:从1911年辛亥革命到1992年全国全面实行改革开放之前,湘西苗绣设计文化介于古代与现代之间,体现出间性文化特质,处于特殊的准现代时期。其次,总结了湘西苗绣传统设计文化的技术、艺术和民族特征。技术特征,表现在工艺的复杂性和劳动的复合性;艺术特征,体现在图案、造型、构图、色彩等方面的独特风格;民族特征,包含文化民族涵化的动力机制和设计文化的民族内涵。再次,探讨了社会转型文化变迁导致湘西苗绣传统设计文化发展所面临的经济、文化、人才三大困境。经济上,由于历史积淀经济绝对贫困,劳酬失衡生产效益低下和国家不在场导致扶持缺位三个原因,使苗绣陷入价值背离和赋能不足的困境。文化上,指出市场逼仄的困境其实质是市场文化的困境。从文化变迁之后市场拓展不开,认同消解之后消费驱动不足,强势文化近逼主体调适不当三方面进行分析,提出传统文化模式的崩溃而现代社会市场文化才初步确立,生产主体与消费主体的市场文化尚未达成“价值耦合”,“文化生态”尚未优化等问题。人才上,湘西苗族群众陷入文化断层造成主体接受难、教育缺位导致传承失序和体系不全导致知识紊乱的困境。最后,提出湘西苗绣传统设计文化现代化的机制建构与路径探索。在现代化的机制建构方面,认为:湘西苗绣的现代化转换是在中国农耕传统社会由于受到改革开放市场经济的剧烈冲击而产生的仓促回应,在人文素质、技术水平、市场开拓、行业规范等各方面都显得准备不足,迫切需要建构湘西苗绣现代设计文化发展机制。其中,《苗族刺绣》省地方标准的制定与发布,为提升苗族刺绣产品品质、保护苗族刺绣市场价格和消费者利益,促进民族文化的传承、保护、创新、发展起到了极为重要的作用。在其现代化的路径探索方面,主要体现在价值现代化、技术现代化和产业现代化。价值上,要对传统思想文化作现代扬弃,在传承保护的基础上守正创新,寻求生产主体与消费主体的“价值耦合”。技术上,要对传统技术文化进行现代改造,加强运用数字化技术、人工智能技术。产业上,找准企业自身条件下面对现代市场的发展模式,走出各自发展道路。总之,湘西苗绣作为国家级非物质文化遗产,在尊重民族文化底蕴的同时,需不断吸取时代元素,与社会接轨与时代共振。湘西苗绣需要遵循内容为主、创意为先、技术为要的原则,本着一切以人为核心,以市场需求为方向的设计理念,全方位、多角度促进苗绣现代化、智能化的转变,使其融入大众,形成社会广泛参与、人人保护的活态传承生动局面。讲好“非遗”文化故事,实现服务当代,造福未来的美好愿景。更多还原

【Abstract】 The Xiangxi Miao embroidery,a traditional hand-embroidery craft passed down through generations among the Miao people in Western Hunan,is an exceptional representative of the traditional culture in the eastern dialect area of the Miao language.It was included in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2021.The traditional design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery,as a relatively independent subsystem within the cultural system of the Miao people,embodies their design cultural concepts,characterized by its ethnic and regional patterns.In the context of design culture,‘design’ refers to creative activities carried out for a specific purpose,while ‘culture’ represents the totality of human spiritual life and social behavior.Studies and research indicate that the production and innovation of Miao embroidery items have explicit purposes.The Miao embroidery artisans’ embroidery activities can be considered a form of intuitive design,which drives the evolution of Miao culture from tradition towards modernity.The traditional aspect of it arises from its origin to meet the needs of traditional farming society.However,after the reform and opening,facing the impact of modern industrial mass production,Xiangxi Miao embroidery underwent a cultural transformation to adapt to the industrial civilization era.Its cultural changes are aesthetic practices undertaken to optimize the cultural ecology.National attention has been paid to the inheritance and preservation of Xiangxi Miao embroidery.Local governments and scholars have also conducted extensive research and practice,achieving impressive results.However,having conducted nearly six years of investigation and research into Xiangxi Miao embroidery,the author has discovered that beneath the apparent prosperity,issues such as cultural discontinuity,a lack of successors,and market disarray still exist,hindering further development of Xiangxi Miao embroidery.In this study,1992 serves as a demarcation point,dividing Xiangxi Miao embroidery into traditional and modern phases.Focusing on the historical evolution from tradition to modernity and taking the traditional design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery as the research object,the paper conducts a comprehensive examination from four aspects: historical causes,techniques,artistic and ethnic characteristics,developmental dilemmas,and the construction and path of modernization mechanisms.It aims to explore,from multiple perspectives,the strategies for the inheritance and modern development of the traditional design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery.Firstly,in addressing the inconsistent differing theories on the origin of Xiangxi Miao embroidery,the research traces the historical development of the Miao region in Western Hunan.It concludes that Miao embroidery originated from the ’tattooed and painted clothes’ of primitive tribes over 4,000 years ago during the Yao and Shun eras.The paper points out that from the 1911 Xinhai Revolution until 1992,when the comprehensive reform and opening-up policy was implemented nationwide,the design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery existed between the ancient and modern eras,embodying the characteristics of an interim culture and experiencing a unique quasi-modern period.Secondly,the research summarizes the technical,artistic,and ethnic characteristics of the traditional design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery.Its technical characteristics manifest in the complexity of the craft and the composite nature of the labor.The artistic characteristics lie in the unique style of patterns,shapes,compositions,and colors.The ethnic characteristics comprise the dynamic mechanism of cultural ethnic acculturation and the ethnic connotations of the design culture.Thirdly,the research identifies three major predicaments faced by the traditional design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery due to socio-cultural transitions:economic,cultural,and talent-related challenges.Economically,the absolute poverty accumulated over history,the low production efficiency caused by the imbalance between labor and remuneration and the lack of national support have all resulted in a divergence of value and insufficient empowerment in Miao embroidery.Culturally,it points out that the dilemma of a narrow market is in essence the dilemma of market culture.Analyzing from three aspects: the difficulty in market expansion resulting from cultural shifts,insufficient consumer motivation brought by a decrease in cultural identity,and the inappropriate adaptation of dominant cultures,it highlights issues such as the collapse of traditional cultural modes,the initial establishment of market culture in modern society,a lack of ‘value coupling’ on market culture between producers and consumers,and an unoptimized ‘cultural ecology’.In terms of talent,the Miao community in Xiangxi faces challenges of cultural discontinuity causing difficulties in acceptance,a lack of education leading to disordered inheritance,and an incomplete system causing knowledge confusion.Lastly,the research proposes a construction mechanism and explores the path for the modernization of the traditional design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery.Regarding the construction of modernization mechanisms,it is believed that the modern transformation of Xiangxi Miao embroidery is a hasty response to the severe impact of the market economy brought by the reform and opening policy on China’s traditional farming society.This change finds itself unprepared in various aspects,such as cultural quality,technical level,market development,and industry norms,and thus it is an urgent need to construct a development mechanism for the modern design culture of Xiangxi Miao embroidery.In particular,the formulation and release of the provincial local standard for ’Miao Embroidery’ plays a critical role in enhancing the quality of Miao embroidery products,protecting market prices and consumer interests,and promoting the inheritance,protection,innovation,and development of ethnic culture.In terms of exploring the path of modernization,it is mainly reflected in the modernization of value,technology,and industry.In terms of value,it is suggested to modernize and discard traditional ideological culture,innovate while maintaining and protecting the original basis,and seek ’value coupling’ between production and consumption subjects.Technically,traditional technological culture should be modernized,and the use of digital technology and artificial intelligence should be strengthened.Industrially,enterprises should identify their development model in the modern market based on their conditions and carve out their development path.In summary,Xiangxi Miao embroidery,as a national-level intangible cultural heritage,needs to continually incorporate contemporary elements while respecting its ethnic cultural foundation,to align with society and resonate with the times.Xiangxi Miao embroidery should adhere to the principle of being content-first,creativity-led,and technique-focused.With a design philosophy centered around people and guided by market demand,it should promote a comprehensive and multi-dimensional transition to modernization and digitization,allowing it to integrate into public life,and form a lively inheritance scene with widespread social participation and universal protection.Telling the cultural stories of intangible cultural heritage well will fulfill the beautiful vision of serving the present and benefiting the future.更多还原