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饮食文化景观的生产机制及意义建构

The Production Mechanism and Significance Construction of Food Culture Landscape

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【作者】 侯兵; 牛佳宁; 马健鹰; 余凤龙;

【Author】 HOU Bing;NIU Jianing;MA Jianying;YU Fenglong;School of Tourism and Culinary Science, Yangzhou University;Institute of Yangtze River Cultural Research;Key Laboratory of Chinese Cuisine Intangible Cultural Heritage Technology Inheritance,Ministry of Culture and Tourism;

【机构】 扬州大学旅游烹饪学院; 长江文化研究院; 中餐非遗技艺传承文化和旅游部重点实验室;

【摘要】 景观生产是刻画地方文化变迁的重要视角,饮食文化既有物质表现形式,也是不同时空背景下社会关系和社会风情的映射,饮食文化生产具备了景观生产的典型特征。在推动中华优秀传统文化创造性转化和创新性发展的时代背景下,亟须关注饮食文化景观生产的过程、机制和意义,借此观照传统文化保护、传承、利用的方向和路径。文章基于文化地理学的理论视角,以扬州炒饭为例,运用史料和文献分析、问卷调查和访谈等方法,剖析扬州炒饭文化景观生产的过程及影响。研究发现:1)作为文化景观的扬州炒饭,其演化脉络涵盖了民间演绎下的史料源头、“炒”技术条件的形成、“炒饭”作为食物现象的多重社会功能和现当代扬州炒饭的出现及其实践等过程和维度,景观形象呈现出由抽象到具象的转变;2)扬州炒饭文化景观生产机制,具有构成要素上的自然基底、具象质料和非具象质料,并形成了由文献史料和文学作品的建构、商业化经营行为的扩散、专业院校人才培养的推动、研制炒饭制作标准的规范以及政府对其作为非遗项目的认定等五重动力,基于要素支持和动力作用,构成了由意象形态、物理形态至社会形态的文化意象生成机制、物态结构调节机制和社会形象塑造机制;3)扬州炒饭文化景观的意义建构,是在不同时期、不同场景下多个权力主体交织其中和共同作用下形成的,体现了文化生产中地方性和全球化的有机统一。扬州炒饭具有多元化的场景表达,不同属性的“真实性”在不同场景下和谐共生。扬州炒饭文化景观在生产中不断延伸出新的寓意,已经成为一种价值观的象征与表达。

【Abstract】 The production of cultural landscapes provides an important perspective for understanding the evolution of local culture. As both a material expression and a representation of social relations,everyday practices and aesthetic values formed across different periods and contexts, food culture naturally carries the essential characteristics of landscape production. In the context of promoting the creative transformation and innovative development of traditional Chinese culture, it is necessary to focus on the processes, mechanisms and cultural meanings involved in the production of food culture landscapes. Such attention helps clarify the directions and pathways for protecting, transmitting and utilizing traditional culture. Based on the theoretical perspective of cultural geography, this study takes Yangzhou Fried Rice as a representative case and uses historical and textual analysis, questionnaire surveys and interviews to examine the production process, driving forces and mechanisms of its cultural landscape. The study presents three main findings: 1) As a cultural landscape, Yangzhou Fried Rice has followed an evolutionary trajectory that encompasses its historical origins interpreted in folk narratives, the formation of the technical conditions required for frying, the multiple social functions of fried rice as a food phenomenon, and the emergence and contemporary practices of Yangzhou Fried Rice. Throughout these processes and dimensions, its landscape image has gradually shifted from abstract forms to concrete expressions. Historical sources, literary descriptions and culinary records reveal a developmental path that includes its early identity as an imperial dish, its long circulation among ordinary people, its appearance in restaurants during the Qing Dynasty and its systematic development and dissemination after the founding of the People’s Republic of China. This process demonstrates a progressively clearer and more multidimensional pattern of cultural production, which strengthens the sustainability and vitality of the cultural landscape. 2) The production mechanism of the Yangzhou Fried Rice cultural landscape is composed of natural foundations, tangible materials and intangible cultural elements. Historians, writers and scholars have shaped the cultural imagery that associates it with both imperial cuisine and folk gastronomy. Researchers and professional institutions have contributed to its development by improving technical standards and cultivating skilled personnel.Commercial activities have accompanied its evolution and strengthened its social influence.Government agencies have supported its recognition by granting intangible cultural heritage status,which increases cultural identity among practitioners and stimulates consumer interest. The cultural landscape of Yangzhou Fried Rice therefore includes imagistic, physical and social dimensions,forming mechanisms of cultural imagery creation, material structure regulation and social identity formation. 3) The contemporary practices and cultural meanings of the Yangzhou Fried Rice landscape are rich and significant. Its meaning has been shaped through the interaction of multiple actors across different time periods and diverse social settings. This process reflects the integration of local characteristics with broader global influences in cultural production. Yangzhou Fried Rice presents diverse modes of landscape expression. Through the combined effects of traditional cooking practices and staged or performative displays, it offers gastronomic experiences and landscape attributes. As new meanings continue to emerge, it has gradually become a symbolic expression of cultural values, identity and shared heritage.

【基金】 国家社会科学基金艺术学一般项目“文化和旅游深度融合发展的实践特征、态势评估与机制创新研究”(23BH164)资助~~
  • 【分类号】TS971
  • 【下载频次】69
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